1985 1900S new toy, and looking for manual

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
You said in the video that 4 of the cyliders were in good shape, I guess the other two were not? Did the sludge clean up easily? How's the injection system?
 
You said in the video that 4 of the cyliders were in good shape, I guess the other two were not? Did the sludge clean up easily? How's the injection system?
There are 7 (as if this moment) vids on my channel having to do with this project. I named them all the same, just appended a number, so I have [video title] 1, [video title] 2, and so on, just to let you know how my vids work. In any case, to answer your question, the engine had bad compression on 2 cylinders, and 5 out of 6 pistons had damage, all from I believe a lean condition brought on by bad injectors, and the operator ignoring the temp gauge (or maybe temp gauge wasn’t working). I got as much of the sludge out as I could, spraying cleaner through the crank journals, but I’m counting on clean oil to do the rest. As far as the injection system goes, I’m not certain the pump is working right. I don’t have enough run time with it to tell. I do suspect the pump is also having problems, but I can’t prove it yet.
 

DMiller

Well-known member
If side scuffed pretty severely(Scored) would have been a Overheat, surviving on that goo you drained out of the sump or excess use of ether over months by Previous Owner, or any and all combinations of the above.
 

Made more progress on the ol Cornbinder. The oil is still milky, or rather, milky again. I'm hoping that is just still residual old contaminated oil being pumped from all the nooks and crannies in the engine. A pressure test of the cooling system shows a good seal, it holds pressure. So, hopefully another oil and filter change will greatly reduce the milkyness factor.
 
After a coupla drives, I can say with certainty that motor is all good to go. Water and oil levels don’t change, and the “milky ness” doesn’t either, so I’m going with it. Another oil change or 2 and it’ll be all gone. I had to make a goofy taillight bracket because it didn’t have tail lights. Just a piece of angle with some lights bolted to it, and the angle c-clamped to the frame back there. How the hell they were running this without lights back there is beyond me. Also, I don’t know if anyone noticed, but it had an old Sullivan 250 compressor mounted behind the cab. I used the term “mounted” loosely. I was under there working on the parking brake, and I looked up and there are no bolts, no brackets, no welds holding that thing on. Sure as hell, it’s just sitting on there! I grabbed a pry bar and moved it. Holy crap. I towed that thing on a flatbed for about 30 miles to get it here. Damn lucky it didn’t bounce off. Hah!

Its been at my house for the last few weeks, so I could do the rebuild in comfort (more or less). I took it to the shop yesterday where I will take off that compressor and start building a service body for it. It’s going to be my new service truck. The old F350 I have is getting tired of being way over gross. I am not crazy about the automatic transmission. I mean, it drives like a car and all, but that’s a lot of weight to not be fully in control of. If those brakes fail, there’s nothing to stop me. Well, I guess I can still downshift and use the park brake to finish the job. I dunno. We’ll see about that. I think a 10 speed is just the thing for that rig. That engine sure sounds good WFO, but yeah it doesn’t exactly produce buckets of HP. I got plans to change that. I’m thinking 225HP with that 10 speed would be perfect. Just gotta install an EGT gauge and keep it at a reasonable temp.

I got a question about the brakes. I understand why that electric motor runs when the engine is off and key on, but should it run also whenever the brakes are depressed? I haven’t looked at the brakes too closely, but I though the power steering pump provided the power for the brakes, and that motor was only supposed to run when the engine wasn’t running. Do I have that wrong?
 
Here's the scoop on the brakes: I've worked a little bit on hydroboost brakes, but not a ton. I understood they got their power from the power steering pump (cuz diesels don't generate no vacuum duh). But I never had a thorough understanding of them. They do get their power from the power steering pump, but also in this case, there is an electric motor that acts as a backup for when the engine is not running, or not running fast enough to generate pressure to run the brakes. When that motor runs, the pressure light on the dash is also supposed to light up (it didn't in my case). There is a pressure switch and a relay that controls that motor. The switch is in the lines going out to the calipers, and there is also a sensor on the pressure line from the PS pump. Key on, engine off, that light should be on and that motor should be running. As soon as the engine starts, it should see pressure, the light should go out, and the motor stop running. Thereafter, the motor should only run when you hit the brakes, and there is not enough pressure to boost them properly, or pressure drops. My motor was running all the time, with no light. The bulb is probably out, so I'm not concerned about that right now. The reason my brake pressure was low was because when I loaded it up on the flatbed, I used a skidsteer with forks on it to get it up there. I grazed the rear axle at one point, and took out all those brake lines. So, for the trip from my mouse to my shop, I had that rear line capped. I can go slow and use backroads - I was comfortable just running the front brakes, and it turned out fine. Well, with that line capped, and air in there, the pressure was low, so the pressure switch sees that, and runs that motor all the time. I have new brake lines coming, and will get er all fixed up and try it again. I bet it works better once the system can build pressure. I'm out of cash at the moment for this project, but as soon as I get some more revenue flowing, I'm going to splurge on the manuals - I obviously need em.
 

DMiller

Well-known member
Hydroboost senses pedal pressure for demand, if has PS Fluid Pressure no need for motor to cycle. With a Line failed it sees a line differential and runs all the time.
 
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