Project REO Speedwagon

Longhood

Well-known member
Brake parts can be hard to find, especially wheel cylinders, The remote booster should be easy enough, if you have trouble, we have a local shop that does a lot of them, and with out dollar where it is it might be cheaper. I have some information on a "hybrid" ignition cheat, that basically uses the points to fire an electronic module, taking most of the load off of the points, if you are interested I can see if I can find the link.
 

JasonG

Well-known member
If Longhood doesn't find the link, Google IGBT ignition circuit.
As for the condenser, just use the big yellow Mallory one. Size isn't critical.
 

RonG

Well-known member
The condenser plays a part in reactance of the coil/contact set and helps to determine how much deposit is left on the points over the years but with the low current draw of that hybrid setup it probably will be pretty low.Ron G
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
I'm planning to do some work on the truck through the winter. One of my clients owns a few airplane hangers and I've rented some space in one of them. The place is immaculately clean, he hires someone to polish the floors annually!! My plan is to just remove parts and take them to my shop at work to restore, I don't want to make a mess in the hanger. I've never done a restoration before so I don't know if there's a standard procedure that most follow. I'm thinking I should probably get an idea of what shape the engine and trans are in first and have any necessary machine work done while I continue to work. I'm open to suggestions from anyone who had done restorations.
 

Truck Shop

Well-known member
Well the first place I would start is remove the nose and cab but that depends on how far into it you want to go. The engine is a job you want to do minus
the nose, the trans can always be done later with cab on. But for me I would gut it so frame can be cleaned and painted along with the axles and suspension.
Then install the repaired engine and trans. Personally I would have the cab and nose painted before installing on frame, you just have to be careful is all.
Any brake lines and wiring can be added to the frame once the cab is on. When building my Jeep that's pretty much how it was done and most things I had
to make from scratch. So it was build and mock everything up then disassemble for paint then reassemble. Hopefully that helps.

Truck Shop
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
That's the plan Truck Shop, frame off. I wasn't sure of the order to do it in. My brother in law is doing the same thing to a '46 GMC 1 1/2 ton that I've helped him with but I wasn't involved at the beginning. He's waiting for the cab to be painted now. Another week or so and I'll get at mine and post pics of the progress.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
My brother in law helped me pull the hood off today so I can get ready to pull the motor. Took a few shots of it unobstructed. It's amazing how clean this truck is! I've seen 10 year old trucks in much worse shape. I've looked all over this engine for a brand marking but can't find even a hint. I'm going with it being a Continental as mentioned, I've seen pics of them that look real similar. It seems that Reo named it the "Gold Crown 245", I'm wondering if that's why there's no branding on the engine because manufacturers using it branded it their own? It seems these engines were used into the 70s in industrial equipment so I'm hoping parts aren't too hard to find

Engine Left.jpg


Engine Front B.jpg


Engine Right B.jpg
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Does anyone know how I can tell if the truck is 6 or 12 volt? There was no battery in it, it has a generator instead of an alternator.
 

rzucker

Well-known member
More than likely 6V positive ground, but it may have been converted, check a few light bulb numbers and see what they are. Headlamp sealed beams should have the voltage printed on them. The starter or voltage regulator may have the info on a tag also.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Yea, that's the trouble. Headlamps aren't sealed beam and the regulator cover is gone. I may find something when I get down to the starter or generator but I was trying to get a jump on it. It's probably likely it's 6 volt. Thanks
 

Longhood

Well-known member
If the battery box still appears to be intact it is probably six volt, in my experience most 12 volt conversions happened so that an alternator could be used. a quick check to see which battery clamp is bigger will tell you the polarity, the positive post is slightly larger than the negative although that won't help much if the truck is 12 volt positive ground. GM went to 12 volt in '55. I guess the cheap and quick test is to hook up a light and see if it looks bright enough with 6 volt power, or really bright with 12.
 

Truck Shop

Well-known member
Just looking at the photos of the wiring and charging system it all looks original, right along with the fuel injection, egr and ac.:p

Truck Shop
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
The wiring harness has 4 wires LOL!! Ignition, starter, headlights and heater blower, that's it! The turn signals were added at a later date. The original wires are fabric covered, the turn signals are plastic covered.
 

Brian H

New member
Steve, I please do keep the posts coming as I have a 1947 REO Speed Wagon dump truck coming my way in a month. Same colour and shape and I am really looking forward to getting it to my place. Just waiting for the weather here in BC to settle down a little bit. I am thinking it is a 1 and 1/2 ton or 2 ton, but I will find out when it gets here. Bought new in Vancouver by a farmer in the Fraser Valley and stayed on the same farm its whole life. Clock has 26,000 miles on it, the old girl still has the old wig wag turn signal indicator on the side of the cab. No add signal lights at all.
 

Truck Shop

Well-known member
Steve, I please do keep the posts coming as I have a 1947 REO Speed Wagon dump truck coming my way in a month. Same colour and shape and I am really looking forward to getting it to my place. Just waiting for the weather here in BC to settle down a little bit. I am thinking it is a 1 and 1/2 ton or 2 ton, but I will find out when it gets here. Bought new in Vancouver by a farmer in the Fraser Valley and stayed on the same farm its whole life. Clock has 26,000 miles on it, the old girl still has the old wig wag turn signal indicator on the side of the cab. No add signal lights at all.
Welcome- That sounds pretty cool.

Truck Shop
 

Brian H

New member
The sheet metal on that one looks pretty straight and it looks complete also:).

Truck Shop
That is the amazing part after all these years, totally original from the dealership. No clearance lights, no signal lights other than the wigwag and totally straight. When it gets home I will have the long arduous task of stripping her down and refurbishing. I am wondering if I should remove the cab and dump box and give the frame a clean and painting. All or nothing so to speak. I have a 47 Power Wagon and I wanted to leave it as is....like it had just come out of the bush, but dirty frame keeps jumping out in any pictures I take of her. lol
 
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