Project REO Speedwagon

Truck Shop

Well-known member
I would strip the cab off and repaint. If your anything like me it will drive you crazy if you don't. And post some pics of that 1947 PW, I like those:D.

Truck Shop
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
I pulled the radiator today and was able to turn the engine over with the fan blade. Engine isn't stuck!! I forgot to bring chocks so I didn't want to throw it in neutral and turn it the whole way to see how the compression is. Oil that's in it is pretty darn clean, nice golden color to it! Block really didn't have much water in it, there was just a trickle that came out of the radiator, hardly enough to maker the bottom of the bucket wet.
 

Truck Shop

Well-known member
That's a good sign, who knows some fresh fuel and a clean carb and plugs it will probably fire right up.

Truck shop
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
You know, I just may pull the carb and clean it and try starting it before I yank the motor. It will have to come out anyway to clean the frame and paint, plus the motor is leaking oil pretty bad on the passenger side, the crud looks to be at least a quarter inch thick.
 

rzucker

Well-known member
I pulled the radiator today and was able to turn the engine over with the fan blade. Engine isn't stuck!! I forgot to bring chocks so I didn't want to throw it in neutral and turn it the whole way to see how the compression is. Oil that's in it is pretty darn clean, nice golden color to it! Block really didn't have much water in it, there was just a trickle that came out of the radiator, hardly enough to maker the bottom of the bucket wet.
One thing about that super clean oil, it's a good chance that after years of sitting all the nasty stuff has just settled to the bottom of the pan. I tore down a Cat D318 once that had sat for 20 years and had spotless oil... There was so much crap in the pan the oil would not drain 'til I poked a screwdriver in the drain hole. It had a good 1/4" of solid soot buildup that had settled out over the years.
 

rzucker

Well-known member
Interesting, I have never seen a Coleman axle with Budd wheels, usually they were clamp type rims with the telltale domed sheet metal cover in the center to cover that weird gimbal setup they used in place of a steering knuckle u joint. I once owned a 74 Chevy 6500 with a Coleman front end (ex military) and it absolutely sucked to drive on the road.10,000 original miles and it was all shake and wander. Farmall used Colemans on their first mechanical front drive tractors too. 706 and 806... I think.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Pulled the driveshaft today and was able to turn the engine 360°. Virtually no compression, I suspect the valves are stuck open. Crankshaft is intact, distributor turns. Looks like at minimum the head will have to come off.
 

Truck Shop

Well-known member
Flat head engines will do that it's not that uncommon for the valves to stick because of moisture. I gave away my flat head valve spring compressors,
otherwise I would have gladly given them to you.

Truck Shop
 

rzucker

Well-known member
Flat head engines will do that it's not that uncommon for the valves to stick because of moisture. I gave away my flat head valve spring compressors,
otherwise I would have gladly given them to you.

Truck Shop
I had a 163 Continental flathead in a Lincoln welder with valves stuck from sitting. I pulled the head and sprayed a good penetrator on the stems and let it run down into the guides, then used a nylon hammer and played "whack-a-mole" on the valves for a couple days while turning the engine, unstuck all of them. Had it running the next day and it never missed a lick for 12 years. It's in North Dakota building a refinery now.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
I've made a little more progress in getting things apart. Dropped the transmission yesterday, it's a standard 4 speed. Boy is it heavy!! I used a floor jack to lower it to the floor. I'm still amazed at how easily this truck is coming apart, the bellhousing bolts were all free and the input shaft slid out of the clutch with very little coaxing. There are grease fittings everywhere, the throwout bearing has a grease fitting that is accessible through a panel in both the bellhousing and floor and the shaft the clutch linkage rotates on has a fitting on each end. I don't know what kind of reputation REOs had back in the day but it would seem they were built to last!

It would appear the entire truck was red, cab, frame and wheels as the parts I've been removing have clean red paint under them. The inner fender liners are the only things that are black. This brings me to a personal dilemma, if I were to do a factory restoration it would be a pretty boring truck with everything red, and red seems to be about the most common color of old trucks. The idea of a green cab with red frame and wheels is growing on me, I can't remember what trucking company used that theme but it was attractive to me.

I found some highway reflectors in the truck that are in good shape, they make interesting period correct accessories for the truck!!

Reflectors.jpg

Reflectors2.jpg

Reflectors3.jpg

Reflectors4.jpg
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Parking Brake assembly


ParkBrake.jpg


Clutch


Clutch.jpg


Radiator. Rather than fins, it's the old honeycomb style. I need to find a shop that will respect its age and have it flushed. Brand on the radiator is "Fedders" These details really intrigue me!


Radiator.jpg


Radiator2.jpg
 

BoxCarKidd

Active member
Fedders made household A/C units in Effingham Il up to around 1995. Wonder if that was the same outfit? Old Consolidated Freight colors. Thanks for sharing your truck.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Same company, I did some research on them after seeing the logo. They were involved in a number of different ventures through the years to stay ahead of the economy of the times. Quigan came into play in 1946 when they began to produce radiators for vehicle manufacturers. They actually produced the Pierce-Arrow as well.
 

Steve Frazier

Founder
Staff member
Cleaned up the transmission a bit today and uncovered these markings. The bearings seem to have some slop in them, I think I'm going to have to disassemble the trans to replace them. It was covered in grease and grime a quarter inch thick, it looks like the oil was weeping from the shift hole. I'll have to look at how its sealed and try to tighten things up there. Found my first setback today too, the cast iron bell housing is cracked in two places. I'll have to find a good welder to repair it. There's a Cat dealer nearby that I deal with, I'm hoping they can point me to someone.


Transmission.jpg
 
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